B92 - Travel - Studenica, a peaceful retreat steeped in Orthodox heritage

8 June 2007

Studenica, a peaceful retreat steeped in Orthodox heritage

Lucy Moore

Perched high on a hill in the mountains of southwestern Serbia, Studenica monastery is a peaceful retreat, steeped in Serbian Orthodox cultural and religious heritage.

Studenica is a bit off the beaten trail, even for Serbia, but its garden-covered grounds and rose-hued church domes, strikingly refined in contrast to the dark untouched forest of the surrounding hills, make the journey well worth the trouble.

The Church of the Virgin's rose colored dome peaking out from the monastery's walls.

And the centuries-old frescoes covering the interior of Studenica’s multiple churches render the monastery a sight to behold, inside and out.

History:

Studenica monastery was founded by Stefan Nemanja in approximately 1190, following his abdication as ruler of Serbia’s medieval state. The construction of the churches and grounds, however, continued intermittently over the following centuries. As was the case for many of Serbia’s medieval monasteries, the grounds fell into ruin over the course of the Ottoman occupation, making the exact dates of its frescoes difficult to determine. However, some portions of the painted walls inside the monastery’s Church of the Virgin, including a vivid depiction of the crucifixion, are claimed to date back to as early as the 13th century.

Grounds:

Today Studenica is comprised of three churches, a small museum within the 18th century refectory and a large tower over the western gate. The Church of the Virgin, the largest of the three churches, combines Byzantine and Romanesque architecture, in a style typical of the “Raška School,” named for the original first Serbian state.

Studenica cast against the snow capped peaks of a nearby mountain range.

The rose colored domed Church of the King, almost a miniature of the Church of the Virgin, was later constructed in 1314 and dedicated to Saints Joachim and Anne.

The Church of the King & the Church of the Virgin.

The 13th century Church of St. Nikolas, small but noteworthy for its beautifully painted interior, also stands on the monastery’s grounds beside and the foundations of a church built in honor of John the Baptist.

Getting There:

Studenica monastery is best reached via the small town of Ušće. Buses running between Belgrade and Novi Pazar pass directly through the center of Ušće, which then offers a bus service out to Studenica and back. The bus schedule is irregular but runs several times daily. Wait time between the outgoing and returning buses can range from 45 minutes to four hours so make sure to ask in advance when the return bus will run. Staff at the local restaurants also know the schedule.

Buses leave from the bus parking lot in the center of town. The town is very small so the parking lot can be easily located. Bus fair is 60 dinar one way. The buses are old and make many stops, but the drive winds through the region’s beautiful green mountains providing quite the view.

Ušće can also be reached by buses running from Kraljevo, a larger town further to the East.

Food and Accommodations:

Turkish coffee from Studenica's neighboring restaurant.

Studenica monastery stands alone, 12 km from the nearest town. Though much of the monastery’s beauty lies in its isolation, its rugged surroundings limit food and accommodation options.

Two restaurants can be found at the bus stop just down the road from the monastery. Both offer the basic range of Serbian fare: stews, soups, salads, roasted meats, and, of course, dark Turkish coffee. The food in both restaurants is cheap and filling while the ambiance, though dark and smoky, is authentic with their local clientele and crackly radio. According to one waiter, the restaurants were once much livelier and filled with internationals visitors, though the regional wars of the 1990s changed all that.

For those wishing to stay overnight, the Hotel Studenica offers rooms at reasonable prices across the street from the monastery. For reservations, call 036 / 836 - 222.